Carburetor Linkage

As I am getting to the point of starting it for the first time, near the end of my rundown list is getting the carburetor linkage figured out. Details are important, and connecting the gas pedal to the engine is one of those details.

I ordered a stock linkage kit packaged by Scott Drake. It came with the linkage rod, the retaining clip, some cheap spring, and the bushing/pin assembly for the pedal attachment. To make sure I understood what goes where, I looked it up in the service manual which had a good breakout for how it was originally.

It led me to using the bushing and cotter pin assembly on the pedal rod, and attempting to use the retaining clip end on the carburetor attachment location.

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That was the extent of things going smoothly. On the engine side, since I have an after market 4 barrel carburetor, the link connection point is also different.

If I use the stock method, there is a clip that hold the 90 degree elbow of the rod in place on the carburetor. With this Edelbrock, there is an additional flange in the way, so the clip wont work.

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I also tried to see how the included spring would work, but I was not impressed by any method I could imagine using it. I threw it out and went with a generic spring kit from the local auto parts store which looked much better and closer to what other experts suggest. I read a lot about having the spring directly attached to the carburetor for safety. If something causes the linkage to disengage, you also want the default to return to fuel off independently.

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Spring distractions aside, I decided to get more creative and assemble a new linkage, following directions from searching the mustang forums. I purchased a custom length rod that is threaded internally, plus a couple of heim joint screw on ends from Speedway Motors. These will attach in the larger openings on the carburetor and the pedal, so I also picked up a couple sets of bushings to reduce the openings specifically for this application.

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One side wasn’t threaded so great, so I went as far as I could take it and used the other side for the adjustment. On the up side, no need for lock nuts as it’s not going anywhere. I think the black is an improvement over the stock style rod as well.

From there, I went to the local hardware store which has an awesome loose bolt/nut section and picked up a couple bolts and lock nuts. I used a 10×32 1 inch on both sides, with a locking nut to hold it. The pedal side was slightly smaller than the carburetor side so the bushings didn’t fit, but I ended up using them as spacers effectively. The heim joint still allows for the motion.  On the carburetor side, I like the position of the larger hole with the additional distance from the rotation point as well.

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I ended up not using anything from the Scott Drake linkage kit except the experience of knowing I wont need it.

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When it’s all done, it kind of blends into the rest of the black, or is hidden by the air cleaner. One more job off the list before ignition.

Parts

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