Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 Install, Part 1

I finally got back to working on the engine and getting the Pro Flo 4 mounted to the engine with the engine wire harness installed. It’s still on the engine stand, so I could only go so far, but I have done what I can up to this point.

This is the starting point today. Most of the front end is in place, it just needs the top installed.

I started with installing the thermostat and housing. Normal tricks of using a string to hold it in place while I bolt it down. With the alternator already installed, it was easier to put the housing on from the bench rather than with the manifold installed.

Step one was to set up the crank to be at 12 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) on the power stroke. Assuming Google didn’t let me down, power stroke is when both valves are closed, which you can see in this picture comparing the valves with piston 1 and piston 2, where #2 has one of it’s valves opened.

I previously made a mark on the outside of the harmonic balancer to indicate TDC. Now I made another on the inside indicating 12 BTDC. I shouldn’t have to check it later since the Pro Flo 4 controls timing, but I marked it anyhow.

Next came the gaskets. The directions had me using Gasgacinch to glue the gaskets to the heads first. Then, using the tube of gasket maker, I set a thin bead around each of the fuel ports, and a thicker bead around the coolant ports. I didn’t get a picture, but I also set a 1/4″ bead across the front and back, with a bit extra in the corners.

With the intake set in place, I hand tightened each intake bolt. I looked up the torque in the 67 service manual and it specified 20-22 lbs so I set the wrench to 20 and started tightening in a cross pattern. I went through them 5 times before they stopped moving and everything was tight at the same torque.

Next came the valve covers. I was going to use the originals from the 5.0 HO, but the new rockers were too tall and they wouldn’t fit. I ended up with these taller Ford Racing aluminum covers which I think compliment the engine well.

With the intake seated and valve covers in place, I had to set the distributor. The timing gear is in the right position, so I had to get the distributor in with the rotor pointing at the #1 wire. I chose to set it up roughly where it would be if it was the original distributor, pointing around 1 o’clock. I may still turn it around and re-do all of the plug wires in order to hide the wire pigtail in the manifold, but not sure. For now, it’s set up with the gear pointing to #1 with it at 12 BTDC.

I am not a huge fan of the big red distributor cap, but there it is, in it’s place of prominence. I can’t find the distributor retainer to lock it in place right now, but I know it is here somewhere. Can’t forget that.

I looked up the recommended plugs on the Trick Flow web site and came up with Autolite 3924s. I picked up a set at the local parts store a while back. Time to put those to use and free up some shelf space.

The plug wires fit well with the headers. I was worried they would have some issues with getting too close, but the cheap Ford Racing set I bought are thick with good boots on either end. Additionally, they are each numbered. I had to look back at my cam grind to see if it was an early 302 firing order, or if it was the 5.0 HO/351 firing order. Looks like it was labeled as a 351, so I went with that order. It will be a while before I know if that’s correct.

With the spark plug wires in place, I moved on to the engine wiring harness. I thought that with the intake having a gap under the throttle body, I would use that space to route wires for the Pro Flo 4 injectors and sensors. I hope it doesn’t cause issues with heat. Everything is out of the way of anything that might be moving, so they should be protected otherwise.

Here you can see the main wiring harness coming out of the back of the intake gap. One issue I am going to have to sort out is the coil location. With the 5.0 HO front end, I don’t see a space where I can mount the coil The wiring harness wires for it are also at the back of the motor, so I may mount it on a firewall or side skirt. I have some research to do before I get there. I also need to get the AC compressor mounted so I can see what kind of space there may be left after that.

At this point, I think I have everything I can do to the motor before I get a bell housing for the starter, and the brackets for the AC compressor. I may need to try dropping it in the car to see how the hood clearance works out. header clearance is a good thing to verify as well.

Now that projects are moving again, it’s on to the next one.

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