The engine I am using is an early 302 that came from the restoration shop. It was already broken down and looked pretty good. It went directly to the local automotive machine shop for inspection and machining to get it in spec and assembled like new. At least up to a long block. The rest is on me.
Here it is as it looked when I picked it up from the machine shop. I asked them to assemble it up to a long block, meaning the pistons, crank, cam and heads are installed with the timing chain. The cylinders were tapered so it was bored and honed. This required new pistons so they went with a flat top piston.
Along with boring the block, they turned the crank to ensure it was in factory spec, replace the bearings and rebuilt the low end. I wanted to make sure someone who knew what they were doing was assembling this part so I didn’t have any question about if things were in backwards, etc.
For the heads, they are the original 302 heads that appear to have come with the block from the factory. The numbers on the heads and the block indicate it was originally for a 1972 Torino.
Decoding the block numbers says it was decade 70 (D) second year (2) Fairlane and Torino (O) engine (E). The 6015 is the part number for an engine and AB is the revision. Additionally, the 2G14 is the date code, indicating 72 (2) July (G) 14 (14). The date codes on the heads are similar. This should help when I need to get parts in the future when there are differences.
The first difference I ran into is the timing chain cover. It appears there are many of these and it defines what water pump you need.
Though upside down, you can see the one I have is a D4OE, so a 74 Torino. Strange that it’s not a 72, but OK. Looking at the number on the harmonic balancer that came with it, I see it’s a C9OE, so a 69 Torino. At least the previous owner stuck with Torino, if not the same year. And it all appears to be Ford original.
There are some significant changes on the timing cover including oil dipstick or sensor, and mechanical fuel pump presence or not. Later model water pumps actually spin the other direction, so its critical to get this right. It’s possible to change it out for a model right off an earlier mustang, but I don’t think I need to as it’s pretty close age wise, and now I know what to shop for.
Along with the engine came a new oil pan, so the shop went ahead and installed that and a new oil pump as well.
I should have asked to get the parts back after machining and before assembly so I could paint, but I didn’t. That left me masking parts off and protecting the internals and seal locations so I could paint it. I hope I didn’t get any paint where it’s going to cause issues. I plugged all the holes and afterwards I cleaned off the mounting locations with a wire brush and very fine paper on a block. I also trimmed the excessive gasket material to clean it up a bit.
My first wave of parts are coming tomorrow so I can at least cover up the exposed holes. In the mean time, I am keeping it under a new plastic drop cloth to keep the dust out. And not using the dust maker (media blaster) until its sealed up.