Transferring the Roof Support

With the wheel wells and rockers in place, its time to start looking at moving the two sub-assemblies that define the convertible roof well and support the top. I don’t know what these are actually called, but one looks like a drip rail and it forms the back and side edges of the compartment the roof is stored in. Additionally, it is the edge of the rear deck between the roof and the trunk lid. This part is not reproduced in a way I can buy just what I need. The other assembly is the divider between the roof well and the back seat, along with the side supports that the roof frame attaches to. It is reproduced, but mine is solid. Both need to move over to the new floor, but at least I don’t have to save all the metal around them when I start pulling them out.

Interior view of a car with the convertible roof assembly partially removed, exposing the compartment for the roof and surrounding metal supports.

It started something like this. There are a lot of pinch welds, and the seat divider assembly is 14 gauge steel, so it’s some work. It also vibrates the frame, causing all kinds of rust and sand to fall out of everything.

I had some issues figuring out how to detach this thing. The main issue is the internal tray that holds the convertible top hydraulic pump. When it was built, that was installed first, welding it to the floor, then the front and back of the seat divider were built around it and welded to it along the front. All of these parts also have a flange on the sides that is welded to the wheel wells. Without reversing the process, its difficult to get to the welds on the inner tray that attach it to the floor. Ultimately, I went to Harbor Freight and got the cheap plasma cutter. I was able to reach in and burn out the pinch welds on the floor, then raise the back slightly to get my shiv in and separate the metal. All this was after I cut out the inner wheel well, or what was left of it with all the rust.

Interior view of a car's convertible roof well and seat divider assembly, featuring exposed metal work and welding areas.

When I separate the trunk hinge mount point from the wheel well, the right side just fell off. Evidently it wasn’t entirely attached to the top. I will weld that back on later. It’s not attached very well originally.

Close-up of a car's convertible roof well and sub-assemblies, showing metal components and rust in a stripped interior.

Looking down on the side of the assembly, there are several layers that need to be carefully removed. And there is the wheel well, which makes everything easier since it’s not going to be saved.

Interior view of a car undergoing restoration, showcasing the convertible roof area and various assemblies being detached and worked on.

I persisted, and was triumphant. First sub-assembly removed. You can see that Ford didn’t put any type of paint or primer on the metal before assembly. Everything that couldn’t get sprayed after assembly is covered in rust. Much of the internal parts of the assembly are rusty, but it’s all just surface rust and will easily grind off, where its reachable. This metal being heavy helps keep it sturdy as well.

Interior view of a car's trunk showing removed sub-assemblies and surface rust on metal components.

I had to put it somewhere, so of course I needed to see it in the new car. The side supports that look like insect wings are pretty rough. It seems a previous owner mangled them maybe when they replaced wheel wells at some point. I have some grinding and hammering to do, as well as a little metal replacement on the back and front flanges. The passenger side front flange was so mangled and just glob welded on to the inner rocker, I just plasma cut it off. I will either try to recover it, or more likely, just make a new one from the left over metal on the front frame rail repair.

Interior view of a dismantled car showing the wheel well and seat divider assembly with visible rust and cut areas.

Next is the drip rail assembly. It includes the top two thirds of the quarter window internal wall, which attaches to the B pillar. From there it wraps around to attach to the rear window to deck filler panel, then around to the same on the other side. I have some considerable dents on the filler panel, and it needs to come off to get under it to hammer them out, so I opted to just replace it. The reproduction part looks pretty much identical.

Close-up view of a car assembly showing rust on the metal structure, with parts removed and exposed areas indicative of renovation work.

Other than the 2 supports in the back that the rear deck lid attaches to, it is welded to the lip of the wheel well, then all along the inner edge of the B pillar, both inner and outer edges. Not a lot of connection points, but it is also a lip for the quarter panel to attach to later. In order to get access, I removed most of the quarter, trying to keep the shape for later reference when I start assembling the quarters around the trunk.

This is a good point to mention I should have braced the whole assembly with cross bars and riser bars. Barry did, and his went in so much easier and with much more confidence that the measurements were right. For reference: Brooklyn Pony Part 6. I was able to get it all back together, but it took a lot more work than it needed to had I braced it, particularly the vertical front and back.

Close-up view of a metal sub-assembly used in a convertible roof installation, featuring clamps securing various components.

I didn’t take any pictures of the drip rail after removing it but before I cleaned it up. So, moving on to getting it installed. I have new B pillars, which come in two parts. Here, I have them welded together after much test fitting, then test fitting them again as a unit.

Close-up view of the car's convertible roof assembly, highlighting the newly installed wheel wells and rockers in a garage setting.

I continued to have issues getting the quarters to fit. Eventually, I had to keep moving, so I took all the measurements I could off the original, plus off my blue convertible and started welding. I will have to tweak the quarters on install, or find a better stamp. Anyhow, here the B pillar is welded in, and I see I missed a couple welds to be smoothed on the bottom. I went back later with the magic wand belt sander and cleaned those up. After all the grinding, I put some primer on the bare metal to keep everything protected.

Close-up view of two metal pieces, one painted white and the other rusty and damaged, placed on a cardboard surface. The white piece appears to be a replacement part for a vehicle, while the lower piece shows signs of wear and corrosion.

There are these little brackets on the bottom of the quarter window area. I can’t find any reproduction, so I had to take the rusted mess and weld in some new steel. I cut all the rust and used a piece of the original quarter panel to clean it up. I spent too much time on a part that will never be seen again.

Two metal brackets with slotted openings, placed on a flat surface.

Other than drilling a couple holes for plug welding on the new area, they are ready to install.

Close-up view of a convertible car's metal framework showing the drip rail assembly and attachment points.

For reference, they go here. The quarter window frame will attach to the U slot and the 2 threaded holes in the frame rail.

Along with those, I welded the deck lid hinge supports and put in the riser supports on the side of the B pillar, which is unique to the convertible so the B pillar has rigidity. All of the drip rail is now cleaned up and welded in. I need to get me some seam sealer before I start putting the other assembly in, but I also have some cleaning and repairing to do first.

Close-up view of a convertible car's body sub-assembly with exposed metal parts and a well structure for the convertible roof.

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