The intermittent wiper function of the convertible isn’t working, so I took this as an opportunity to pull the pump and see what’s going on. This is a follow up to add more detail to my previous post on rebuilding the pump found here.
Looking at my previous post, I didn’t spend much time covering the check ball functionality. With this one, I spent a little more time going over the details. First, I noticed there is a retainer on the large inlet to hold the check ball in place. I didn’t have this with my other pump, so the ball probably moves further down the hose than it should.
The retainer is the smaller diameter end of the larger inlet port. First thing I noticed was that I could not unscrew the assembly without removing it. Somehow, the ball did not fall out when I removed it though. After taking the assembly apart, the ball fell out of the center area of the housing.
Above you can see the check ball, the retainer, and the assembly, along with a few other parts. The check ball looks kind of rough, but it looked familiar. I measured it to find it was 0.127″. Looking in my leftover parts from rebuilding the Autolite 4100 carb, I found the check ball that was not used. It was 0.125″, which is probably the same, minus 50 years of sitting in wiper fluid.
So, I used the new check ball and this time put the retainer in to hold it in place. I blasted the metal assembly and re-used the original bellows and seal, plus a little rubber sealant for good measure. I still need to order a new pedal foot, but that’s all for this one.
Last time I did this, I was still assembling the car and the fresh air vent was not installed yet. Trying to mount the washer pedal with the fresh air vent installed is a pain. I can see that’s what the previous installer did too because they only put three of the four fastening screws in. I think for now, I will do the same, but order the correct screws when I order the pedal cover, then secure it properly then. That means I will have to remove the fresh air vent too, so a much bigger job than it needs to be just to get that last screw installed.
Ultimately, what got me to look at the pump was the wipers not parking. It turns out it was just not plugged in. I could have just plugged it in, but I wanted to get it functioning properly again, so it was a good excuse to check it out.
Hey. Stumbled on your blog and want to say thanks. I’m restoring a 68 convertible and followed your direction in media blasting, painting, and restoring my wiper pedal.
I also had my entire floor pan replaced and was wondering if you had any hints/directions as to the proper location to remount the pedal?
I think I had that part of my floor pan replaced in the coup also. The pedal is just attached with sheet metal screws, so I think I approximated the location and just screwed it down. The only other thing in that area of the floor is the high beam button, which is also defined by where you have the hole in the carpet.
having the same issue on my 68 mustang. I can blow both directions through the check valve nut. no idea where to get a new one. My solution (as I am not doing a correct restoration) was to add a one way check valve to the 1/4 inch line going out to the pickets which forces the fluid out without letting air back in each time I pump. If anyone has any idea where I can get a replacement check valve Id be happy to know.
Hi.
Where did you buy the parts? Do you have the parts numbers?
br, Lars, Denmark
The only new part in this post is the check ball which came in a rebuild kit for the 4100 carb. Not sure where I would get one otherwise. Most other parts come from National Parts Depot.
you can find them used sometimes at https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/
Hi,
I know this is a late reply this post. But I was able to use a 14” wobble extension on a 1/4” drive ratchet to get around the fresh air vent and get access to that 4th screw. Just in case there’s someone still working on theirs washer pedal. Also thanks for great documentation of your work…it has really helped me with the washer pump repair on my 68.
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