Since deciding to go with the automatic for the fastback, I have had to change a few plans and find a few new parts. My project list is influenced by the closest things in the pile of parts in the garage, so I went with the pedal assembly next.
The project actually has two since it was originally an automatic, but the previous owner was a good way along collecting parts for a T-5, including the transmission itself. Two of them even. Part of that project included the pedal assembly with a clutch pedal, which will get set aside for now. The manual pedal assembly actually looked a little nicer, but the original looks recoverable, so I got started.
I don’t know what the yellow tab is, but it’s where the clutch pedal stop should be. Maybe some hacked up clutch stop. I also hadn’t noticed that while there is only one pedal, it is half width, like a brake pedal for a clutch setup. That seems odd. Once I took the rubber cover off, I figured out why.
The automatic brake pedal should be roughly twice the width of the manual, since there is no clutch pedal to make room for. Maybe someone was trying to make this a clutch setup at some point. Regardless, I need to find a new pedal, and it looks like Rick’s Pony Parts has one for me. Time for another trip, so I started making my shopping list.
One of the side bushings was pretty torn up and just fell out when I took the pin out, so I took them both off. I had to take the grinder to the other one, but with the tabs removed it came out with a tap. With it all apart, I blasted all the parts I would be using including the bracket and the pin. I added a new bushing kit to my Rick list. Can’t forget the two plastic guides/bushings as well.
It was a sunny day, so I went outside and went to work with the rattle can. Watching the Autorestomod Youtube episode on rebuilding the brake assembly, I noticed they were using SEM Trim Black paint, so I found some locally. It leaves kind of a flat black look, which is just fine. I don’t think this part was painted originally, but I prefer to protect it from rusting again in the future.
Once it dried, it lost most of the gloss. It dried pretty quick too. It has some pitting, but over all it has no structural weakness or damage. Just not the most perfect looking part. Once I put it in, it wont be seen again anyhow.
When I picked up the new pedal, I talked to Rick about the strange bolt used as the pin. I thought maybe it was a weird one off think like a certain year, or factory, but it sounds like just some creative engineering in years gone by. I picked up another original pin and will use the clip I have. Rick also gave me the plastic bushings between the pedal and the pin.
I didn’t get a picture of the replacement automatic pedal before I cleaned it up, but it was pretty rusted. Fortunately, its a big chunk of steel, so media blasting took care of it. From there, its more SEM Trim Black to match the pedal assembly. I opted for the disc brake version of the pedal foot. I just think those add a bit of flare, and its true.
Scott Drake bearing style pedal assembly rebuild arrived. This one is a simple clip on so it doesn’t take any real work. The coupe has a weld on casing for the bearing, which I sent to Mustang Steve to do. A lot more involved there, and a lot more permanent. This one is just a push through bearing casing and some spring clips. It went together easy, after a touch of clearancing on the bracket with the dremel.
Without a brake master cylinder, I just bolted it in loosely with two of the bolts. Good enough to get started on installing the Ididit steering column.