Fog lights and horns

I have been waiting for NPD to get the quality fog light bars in stock so I could finish the grille. Checking in recently, I see they are in, so its time to finish up that detail. While I was there, I also changed out the steering wheel to the one I should have gotten the first time, thus allowing me to also get the horns operational.

So the new wheel install was super easy. I bought a cheap wheel puller tool from the local auto parts store for under $10 which did the job simply. The Performance GT wheel went on simply with good instructions. The adapter kit wired in for the horn seamlessly and I love how this thing looks. I should have just done this the first time and not wasted time and money on the stock wheel.


When I tried the horn the first time, all I heard was a click. As I looked into it, I realized the click was my horn relay with the American Autowire harness. So, that’s a good sign at least. The button on the wheel seems to be working fine. The original horns are not. With the grille emblem parts, I went ahead and added a couple of new horns to the order.

The grille emblems and fog lamp assembly parts were great quality and fit together without issues. Not having had fog lights before, I had to figure a few things out, but over all its pretty straight forward. The horse, coral, and bars fit together first try. The only catch was the brackets to mount the ends of the bars to the grill go in with the bolt holes facing the center. Facing out puts them too far apart to line up with the bars.


From there, I realized I missed ordering the bulbs themselves. They are odd bulbs too. They have 2 screws on them where you attach the wires, rather than any kind of plug in bulb.


The lights wire into the harness with a pair of bullet plugs off the back of the fog lamp assembly. I saw there were ground wires available, so I got those. One attaches to one wire on each light then I attached it to the support bracket because it was easily available. I put a female bullet connector on the end of the supplied AAW wire which chained over to the second light and got a similar bullet connector. This was only possible by removing the horns, which I needed to do anyhow.


To finish the fog lights, I need to wire in the switch on the dash. I had some issues with this, so I mailed support at AAW. They were quick to send back an updated wiring diagram to explain how the 3 wire switch connects in to the 2 wires provided. Before I knew what I was doing, I bought the stock wiring connector for the switch. I ended up basically just cutting the pigtail off and hard wiring that into the AAW harness. I kept the stock style switch connector and that’s it. If I were to do it again, I would save the money and just cut off the connector on the switch and wire it in like the other connectors on the AAW kit.


The black wire was not used so I capped it off. You can see how the others connected, then I wrapped them and tucked them under the dash. I was able to confirm the lights came on, and called this project done, moving on to the horns.

The replacement horns I got were as close to original as you can get in a reproduction. They do look pretty good, but are not exact. The only issue I had with the fit was not leaving extra room on my wiring for the connector to move to the other side on the horn, but I made it work.


The bracket angle is slightly off, so the horns don’t face directly down, parallel to the road. I also learned that the driver side comes in 2 styles, with a different connector for cars with AC.


On the back, there are minor cosmetic differences, but the connecting wire is in a different place. Normally not an issue for stock wiring, but I didn’t leave much room when I wired mine in since I had the stock horns and it fit well.


Passenger side had similar details. Unfortunately, the passenger side horn I received wasn’t quality checked before they shipped it. Notice it doesn’t have the hole for mounting it to the car. Once I drilled it, and ground off the paint for a solid electrical ground, it still didn’t work. I was able to confirm the wiring was not the issue by mounting the driver side for a test. Finishing should be easy as dealing with the replacement.


Horns are in and loud. Note they face down, parallel with the road. I often see pictures of them installed backwards, facing kind of to the outside. For reference, I went back and verified with my pre-restoration pictures.

DSC_0083 1

One more project complete. Replacing the wheel also allowed me to validate the wiring on the steering column. Horn works, blinkers work, and hazards work. Now I just need to figure out what’s up with the rear lights.

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