Since things escalated with the body work, I embraced it and decided the rest of the work should follow the same level of quality. It started with the Street or Track front coilover system rather than a more stock suspension. One of the key drivers is my dislike of removing front springs to try to find the right stance. Add to that an expectation of improved handling and I was on board.
Step one is to get it off the cart since the front mount is where the front suspension attaches. I took the front off and set it on a couple of jack stands. I need to do the back as well, but its more difficult and I need to rig something up, so I put it off for now.
Since I have only done the Arning drop on a 67, I needed a 65 version of the template. SoT sent me this one with the kit. Since the 65 is not just a drop, but also a slight shift back, direction matters. I like the detail for the template with the arrow machined into the plate.
I am starting with the driver side and doing as much as I can before moving to the passenger side. So I placed the template and drilled, starting with 1/8″ and moving through the bits in my box. I finished with a custom ordered 17/32″ bit, as required.
It’s a little tough to get started, but only because I just bought this metal and paid to have it installed. Now I’m putting holes in it. Other than emotional damage, sharp bits make short work of it.
The upper control arm fits in perfect. I bolted it in, but did not torque to spec since I will be removing it as an assembly before painting. Same for all the parts requiring a torque setting.
I hung the assembled spindle and brake assembly to the upper control arm. I was careful not to over extend anything or damage it on the frame where it was resting.
The lower control arm was next. For this, I just used the bolt. I didn’t set it up for the lockout kit at this point. Since I don’t have a welder, I am going to have to farm that part out when it gets torn down again. I took a note on my new list of things not to forget later.
Lower control arm in place. Once I get everything connected, I plan on going back and tightening the castle nuts and setting the pins. I plan on taking things off from the body, and keeping it assembled, so final assembling the joints should be fine now.
Next comes the strut rod. Again, not torqued to spec, but tightened down so it can support the suspension when I get it sitting on it’s wheels.
Next, the lower spring mount point was attached. This is also part of the hardware that holds the strut rod in place on the lower control arm.
The last piece is the shock/spring. This requires some work on the shock tower top. Since it just has a cap, the 3 bolt holes on the top need to be opened a bit with a die grinder, then fit through the supplied plate, under the export brace. I had the brace previously as it was used to ensure the towers were properly aligned during assembly.
I had to do both sides at this point since the export brace is part of the solution, so both sides need to be bolted in.
The spacer rings go under the top of the shock tower, where the springs would seat originally. It took a little trial and reworking to get them aligned right as I was opening up the holes on the shock tower.
The directions said to keep the bolt in the top brace when installing it, but I just left the whole spring hanging while I bolted the top plate to the shock tower cap.
From there, I just needed to bolt the bottom of the spring to the lower control arm mount point and call it good.
The directions say I need to grease it up and remove the grease fittings since they might get crushed by the stock bump stops. I will also leave that for final assembly. I still haven’t decided if I will even use the default bump stops and covers. As it is, the coilovers have a bump stop and the cover isn’t required to protect the spring. A problem for future me to deal with. For now, its on to the other side, then dig through the parts for the sway bar mounting hardware.